The ‘season’ of the title refers to the tourist season, within the precincts of the Mediterranean sea, the only one I know. During that season a more or less comfortable, yet artificial cohabitation of two fundamentally distinct types of traveller emerges : the migrant and the tourist. The most radical form of travel, and the most tragic, is migration. Looking at her birthplace, the soul may well recoil ; she might find it barren, threatening, or ugly. The very odiousness of the scene may compel her to conceive a negative, a contrast, an ideal : she will dream of El Dorado and the Golden age, and rather than endure her familiar ills she may fly to anything she knows not of. This hope is not necessarily deceptive : in travel, as in being born, interest may drown the discomfort of finding oneself in a foreign medium : the solitude and liberty of the wide world may prove more stimulating than chilling. Yet migration like birth is heroic : the soul is signing away her safety for a blank cheque. The exile, to be happy, must be born again : she must change her moral climate and the inner landscape of her mind.
The migrant, suffering simultaneously from relentless overexposure, deliberate invisibility and his disenfranchisement, may belong to the army of seasonal workers who, mostly out of bitter necessity, keep the illusionary edifice of leisure afloat ; or he may be the migrant in the making, secretly plotting an escape to one of those fabled places from where the pale and equally pent-up nixies originate, often based on a scheme of seduction and conquest which, in the end, maybe, will deliver the key to the world of dreams and never-ending satisfactions in the form of visa. On the other hand there may be the former migrants who, after long years of drudgery in the factories of foreign lands, have invested what could be saved from their wages in a small hotel which guarantees, upon return to the homeland, an income in old age and for the children born abroad - should they be willing to return as well ; and finally you may lull in the breeze of an island where thousands of migrants from unfathomable places are hoarded into detention camps where, after a perilous journey, they are kept indefinitely at the mercy of international politics - or their absence. These migrants are obliged to prove that they are not fortune-seeking migrants but refugees before they are granted the necessary papers to move on to the places the tourists come from.
The tourist is the latest type of traveller, and the most notorious. He has beeen robbed of his natural dignity and his full art by the division of labour, the telegraph, steampower (digital media and cheap air travel) and the uniformity of modern countries and modern minds. There may be in him sometimes a sigh of regret for the impossible, a bit of pathetic homage to an ideal he is condemned to miss ; but as a rule he springs not from too much familiarity with alien things but from too little. The maladaptation from which he suffers and which drives him from home may not be his fault : it may be due to the atmosphere from where he comes, the coldness there, the intolerable ache of discords always repeated and right notes never struck. Or it may express an idiosyncrasy by no means regrettable, a wild atavistic instinct, or a mere need of stretching one’s legs, or a young impulse to do something hard and novel. Nevertheless he is a deluded person, trying to escape from himself .
In places which heavily rely on tourism, especially islands where the centuries-old hardships of wresting a subsistence from the wind-slashed, sun-scorched isolation made the majority leave for the mainland, only to return for the summer business, or as tourists in their place of origin, the end of the season inflicts a choking sorrow, if not acute heartbreak, not only amongst the local population, but also within the fancy swarm whose destination of return might after all not be as fancy as their luxuriant presence had suggested. Both the staying and departing lament the loss of temporary, compressed attachments and illusions, desires fed by discontent - exactly the stuff on which the tourist industry thrives ; as the unreconciled antagonism between desire and necessity is festering, all too well known contrast between desire and necessity is detrimentally upheld, the recreational values of tourism and its perceived largesse are construed in opposition to the migrants’ courageous plans to start a life from scratch in an unknown destination and in circumstances which soon enough will confront them with a highly demanding reality : a new language, a goverment’s bureaucracy, a hostile climate, a democracy needing them to define and finance itself, the erasure of the skills they bring along ; and it is by the strenght of their persistence that they come to be seen as parasites. At the end of the season there is a special despair cut out for the aspiring local young and cunning beach Gigolo ; in fact, he is not young any longer and cunningness is depleted as well. To the dismay of his mother and father he has lived in Sodom and Gomorrha season after season without any tangible results ; the hoped-for money of a foreign heir/ess would have excused his emasculation and corruption; but, pampered as he always was, he has passed into that ripe and slightly melancholic age which makes him a true connoisseur of the boudoir and adds to his appeal. He may think : Certainly among mankind, when vices become constitutional, they turn into worldly virtues ; they are sanctioned by pride and tradition, and called picturesque, sturdy, and virile. Yet to a wider view, when their forced origin is considered, they still seem ugly and sad. Sin is sin, though it be original, and misfortune is misfortune so long as the pristine soul stirs within the crust of custom, tortured by the morality which is supposed to save it … This disgrace lies heavy upon him, prompting him to sullen discontent and insidious plots … Yet their unrest is a new incentive to travel, perhaps the most powerful and persistent of all : it lends a great beauty to strangers, and fills remote places and times with an ineffable charm.
If you happen to find yourself amongst the last tourists leaving an island, you may wave goodbye to the One waving goodbye to you, standing on his beautiful feet at the dock, while your’s are standing on a huge machine which will propel you to shores unaccessible to him ; and the sudden realization that your own feet, refreshed and made sinuous by the touch of sand, pebbles, sun and water, will from now on again be imprisoned in shoes trodding the stinking pavement of wonderland, may make you despise what He takes to be your immesurable privilege. You may think : Without our feet we would live like flowers, rooted to one place. We would fade like virgins, drop our petals in sadness and shrink into our withered stalk. We would believe we had missed something we pretended to despise. But our feet give us locomotion which changes pale experience into a life of passion ; and it is on passion that intelligence is grafted. Our feet could therefore be considered the source of our intelligence. And yet we are taught to hide them like our sexual organs. Surely, then, the damage wreaked on our senses must be considerable.